Day 81 21/11 (Sun) – Southward ho!

Off towards Geraldton today. As usual the cheapa campers were ready to go before us (and then as we were eventually pulling out, Chris remembered we needed to adjust the tyre pressures after the gorge trip the day before). The plan was that we would meet at either Lucky Bay (a possible kite surf place) or perhaps further down in Port Gregory (Pete’s suggestion from back in Karajini). Stopped for a look at Red Bluff and a quick drive around the defunct eco estate (saw some more Nankeen kestrels hovering effortlessly over the cliffs) and discovered that this part of the coast has been the site of several shipwrecks, with one ship’s complement having to walk all the way to Perth (one died on the way).

Then on towards Lucky Bay, supposedly ~25k south of Geraldton. Coming up tot the 25 km mark and no obvious roads or signs to indicate where Lucky Bay might be located, so stopped and unearthed Jen from the glove box to see if she could do any better. Hopes were raised when she told us to take the next right….. until it became clear there was no actual road there. She kept directing us off to the right and eventually we took a dirt road off to the right towards the coast but no sign of the cheapa campa, or flying kites in the small turn around. Decided to continue on to Port Gregory to hopefully catch up with the rellies there. Port Gregory is a quaint little seaside village tucked in behind another Pink Lake (more algal blooms but actually harvested and exported from here). Lots of boats bobbing around in the bay but not convinced of its windsurfing cred and no other obvious beach access points. More importantly, no sign of the cheapa campa. Headed back out of Port Gregory and thought perhaps we might find them back along the road. Hadn’t got too far back up the highway when fortunately decided to phone Jeff, who not only had coverage, but answered. Apparently they were in Northampton, a further 47 km further south, as they had been running low on fuel (they couldn’t find Lucky Bay either). All of us had lunch in a car park in Northampton before heading towards Geraldton again.

Stopped at Coronation Beach (actually had a proper road in and a small sign!) to check out the options there. Wind was blowing from the NW and weed was rampant on the shoreline. Also a bit of swell. Apparently the wind normally blows from the SW and the water is flatter. Seems well set up for wind sports, with separate kite and windsurfer rigging areas and separate sailing areas if both are on the water. Ally & Jeff rigged up and had a go, although Ally ended up landing the kite downwind over the fence and into some bushes because the wind wasn’t that strong. It was getting late by the time we pulled our gear out of the car and we probably dithered too much (plus the lone windsurfer out sailing with a 4.7m sail told us the wind was pretty mild out on the water, which further dampened our enthusiasm) so didn’t windsurf there. Camping ground looked OK though, and even though you have to bring your own water and the site is unpowered (fine for us but not so good for the cheapa campa fridge), they not only had flush toilets, but also shower cubicles where you could hang your own water bag / bucket!! Luxury! Especially when considering putting the shower tent up in good windsurfing wind.

Headed on to Geraldton and arrived at the Belair Gardens Caravan Park about 5.30pm, after Jen decided to take us the scenic route (cheapa campers arrived well before us by following the main highway). Not a bad park and relatively close to one of the kite surfing hotspots (Point Moore) but having locked amenities that have to be accessed by key, especially when the toilets and showers are separate, was a bit of a pain.

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